Bandsaw Blades FAQ
Q. How should I tension my bandsaw blades?
A. The correct tension of a band saw blade is vital to get good life out of the blade. Generally speaking you should tension the blade so that it does not slip whilst working and reference should be made to your manufacturer’s manual for detailed advice. Periodically, adjustments may be necessary to compensate for band stretch in use but it is good practice to remember to relieve the tension when the machine is not in operation.
Q. How should the guides be set on a vertical machine?
A. First you should tension the blade correctly as described above and as per your manufacturer’s manual. The back and side guides should then be simply moved in to only just touch the blade and so as not to move the blade away from its natural path.
Q. Should I use cutting fluid with a bandsaw?
A. If you use your bandsaw to cut metal, then a good cutting fluid (with extreme pressure additives) is vital to prolong the lifespan of the blade. There are very few metals which do not require cutting fluid and it should be used with virtually all steel and steel alloy products. It is necessary to choose between a water soluble fluid or a neat cutting fluid, particularly when bi-metal blades are being used. It is generally more economical to use water soluble fluid where the materials being cut fall into the low carbon, low alloy, general purpose category. Better results will be achieved with neat cutting oil where high carbon, high alloy and stainless steels are being cut. Sufficient fluid should be used to ensure the work piece is kept cool and to flush swarf from the blades teeth. Insufficient fluid will allow the work piece to warm up and allow swarf to cling to the blade causing choking and the teeth to strip.
Q. So which metals do not require cutting fluid?
A. Usually cast iron which should be cut dry and aluminium which should be cut with power paraffin.
Q. Does a new bandsaw blade have to be “run in”?
A. Most blades are very accurately heat treated and have an extremely sharp cutting edge and a “running in” period is strongly advised for maximum blade life. The best way to do this is by running the blade at a feed pressure reduced by around one third for the first 500 sq.cm. of cutting. It is important to ensure that the blades surface speed is not reduced and to avoid vibration, shock or mechanical abuse.
Q. How can I tell when I am using the correct feed rate?
A. Chips are the best clue to feed rate, look for the following characteristics:
1. If the chips are powdery, increase the feed
2. If they are free-curling and not discoloured, the feed is just right
3. If they have a blue colour (burned chips), reduce the feed
To get the best performance, try one of the following:
1. Increase the feed rate to take bigger chips
2. Increase the speed - more teeth pass through the cut per minute
3. Use a blade with coarser teeth - more teeth penetrate with greater gullet capacity
4. Use hook tooth blade - positive rake causes teeth to dig in
Q. Having trouble whilst using bandsaw blades?
A. Visit the Bernards Bandsaw Blade Troubleshooter Guide for assistance.
Q. How do you recoil a bandsaw blade for storage?
A. Coiling a bandsaw blade is easy to demonstrate but difficult to describe. First of all wear protective gloves, then hold the blade out in front of you as if looking at a clock face with your hands holding the blade in the three o’clock and nine o’clock positions - both your thumbs will be pointing upwards. Now turn both your wrists at the same time in a clockwise direction (ie. twisting the opposite way for each hand) bringing your hands together and down towards your body as the blade coils. Some people prefer to twist both their wrists in an anticlockwise direction, it makes no difference as long as each hand is going the opposite way. Good luck and don’t forget to wear gloves!
Metal cutting bimetalb bandsaw blades
Manufacturer in china(www.bichamp.com)
Bimetal Bandsaw Blades Troubleshooter
|
Problem |
Possible Cause |
Advice |
|
Saw blade keeps breaking prematurely |
a. Blade tension too high b. Guides tight or maladjusted c. Speed too low for feed rate d. Speed too high e. Cracking at the weld f. Blade too thick for wheel diameter g. Pitch too coarse |
a. Reduce tension b. Alter adjustment c. Increase speed or decrease feed d. Reduce speed e. Check welding technique f. Use lighter gauge g. Use finer pitch |
|
Blade starts to camber and cuts to one side - running out of square |
a. Saw guides too far apart b. Feed pressure too high c. Roller guides not adjusted d. Band pitch too fine e. Set removed by guides f. Blade riding on wheel flange g. Hard inclusion in material |
a. Adjust closer to material b. Reduce pressure c. Adjust correctly d. Use coarser pitch e. Adjust or chamfer guides f. Adjust wheel tracking g. Reduce cutting rate |
|
Vibration whilst cutting |
a. Work piece not securely held b. Incorrect feed pressure c. Not enough blade tension d. Wrong speed for thickness e. Pitch too coarse f. Wrong tooth form |
a. Improve clamping b. Adjust c. Increase tension d. Adjust e. Use finer pitch f. Use variable pitch |
|
Blade dulls prematurely |
a. New blade not ‘run in’ b. Feed rate too light c. Speed too high d. Pitch too coarse e. Coolant not directed f. Saw idling through cut g. Incorrect saw guides for width h. Teeth running in wrong direction i. Wrong blade quality |
a. See FAQ page b. Increase rate c. Reduce speed d. Use finer pitch e. Direct at point of cut f. Keep teeth engaged g. Use correct guides h. Refit blade correctly i. Try different type |
|
Blade twisting |
a. Saw guide arms too far apart b. Blade binding in cut c. Not enough blade tension d. Blade too wide for radius |
a. Adjust correctly b. Reduce feed rate c. Increase tension d. Use narrower blade |
Metal Cutting bimetal bandsaw blades
manufacturer in china.
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